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karamatsu shibori technique
The art of Shibori, where fabric is bound, clamped, or stitched prior to dyeing, is often referred to as tie-dye for adults. Unlike conventional methods, Shibori is unpredictable, and every piece becomes a unique work of art.
One surprisingly simple Shibori technique is called karamatsu, or Japanese larch, which produces circular patterns with branches radiating from the center. Recently, I tried karamatsu for the first time and was thrilled with the results, so I placed my artwork on the front yoke of an Oliver + S Hide-and-Seek Tunic. I'm eager to share with you how I crafted this distinctive textile.
To begin, you'll need 100% cotton fabric, pre-washed. I used muslin measuring approximately 16 inches by 20 inches. If you're planning to use it for the front yoke of the Hide-and-Seek pattern, you'll likely want at least a square foot of fabric. It's better to have the fabric piece slightly larger than needed to avoid disappointment.
Since we’ll be using natural indigo dye, it’s essential to prepare the fabric with a mordant. This helps the fabric accept the dye more effectively. For one pound of fiber, mix 4 ounces of alum and 1 tablespoon of cream of tartar in a large pot of water over heat. Although this isn't an exact science, wetting the fabric before immersing it in the mordant and simmering it for about 30 minutes will suffice.
After removing the fabric from the mordant, let it dry completely and iron it. The next step involves sewing half circles along a folded edge using a running stitch. I opted for three rows of half circles, staggered for added effect. First, divide the fabric into four equal sections by creating three creases with an iron. Using a fabric pencil, draw three half circles—large, medium, and small—all along the folded fabric edge. For the large and medium half circles, I traced around a roll of masking tape, while a spool of thread served as the template for the smaller circles.
With a needle threaded with long, doubled polyester thread and knotted at the end, begin by stitching the outer half circles (the large ones) through both layers of fabric using a small running stitch.
Next, complete the inner circles in the same manner. With a total of nine rows of half circles, this part took me about an hour to finish all the hand stitching.
Once done, gather the fabric by pulling on the three rows of thread simultaneously. Tie knots at the ends of the gathered sections and trim the excess thread.
Before placing the gathered fabric into the indigo dye, wet it thoroughly with water. Allow it to soak in the dye.
This stage feels like a science experiment. One of the most fascinating aspects of indigo dye is its color transformation. When you first pull it out, it appears green, but soon turns blue—a truly magical experience. After letting it sit for a while, rinse it gently.
Finally, the moment of truth arrives. Once you cut the threads and remove them, unfold the fabric to reveal your new creation. The outcome is always a delightful surprise.
I chose the Hide-and-Seek pattern because the yoke beautifully highlights special fabrics. Placing the front yoke pattern piece over my favorite section of the dyed fabric, I sewed up a tunic using white linen.
This project was incredibly enjoyable. If you haven’t tried karamatsu yet, I highly recommend giving it a shot. I found the instructions in Mandy Southan’s book, *Shibori Designs & Techniques*, to be extremely helpful.
Would you like to explore more Shibori designs? Check out these links:
- Liesl’s indigo Shibori post
- Indigo Shibori Jump Rope Dress
- Shibori Hide-and-Seek Dress on Pinterest
Let me know if you’d like to see more Shibori projects!
THE FIBER WAS PRODUCED BY PET FLAKES ,IT CAN BE WHITE ,GREEN ,BROWN .