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my lisette for butterick B6331 trench coat
I'm sure you've come across those countless blog posts and magazine articles titled something like "10 Must-Have Items for Every Woman's Wardrobe." While I appreciate the intention behind them, I always feel a bit frustrated because everyone's wardrobe should be unique to their personal style. What works for one person might not resonate with another, and uniformity in fashion would make life pretty monotonous. Still, there's some truth to those lists — most people could probably benefit from having a versatile white shirt or a pair of well-fitted jeans. Of course, the specific pieces will vary from person to person, but these basics generally make sense for many.
That said, the classic trench coat has never been my go-to. I own one, and I wear it often, but it doesn't feel quite right. It's not something I feel confident in when I put it on. It wasn't until I really thought about what my ideal trench coat would look like that I realized why it hadn't clicked for me. I dislike the length, the belt, and the way the classic trench coat makes me feel like I'm wearing a bathrobe. Yes, I said it.
My solution? The Lisette for Butterick B6331, which was released last spring. I've tailored it with a few adjustments, which I'll detail below.
The fabric I chose is bonded brushed cotton. I stumbled upon it in a quaint shop on the outskirts of London while visiting some sewing buddies last spring. As soon as I saw it, I knew it would be perfect for the Lisette for Butterick B6331 pattern we were working on. It's thick, stiff, and has no drape at all. Sewing it was going to be a challenge, but I was up for it.
To begin with, I created a muslin and decided to reduce the ease since the fabric is so rigid. I slimmed down the coat significantly along the side and underarm seams, making the sleeves narrower. This is straightforward with a raglan design — you simply pin the seams to your liking and transfer those changes to the pattern.
I also widened the collar by about an inch to give it a more dramatic flair. Another adjustment I made was adding a banana stand to the back collar for more structure. I wanted the collar to stand up slightly higher than the usual flat version, so this required some drafting tweaks that might be too complex to explain fully here. However, the difference is subtle yet meaningful to me. (And let's be honest, I enjoy a good challenge.)
For the front pockets, I incorporated welt pockets. If you're familiar with the Liesl + Co. Cinema Dress pattern, it uses the same technique, just emphasizing the pockets a bit more.
Lastly, I removed the belt and belt casing. The stiffness of the fabric made managing a belt impractical, and this change also solved my "bathrobe" dilemma. And here it is:
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When it came to sewing, I experimented with various needles before settling on a microtech needle. The fabric is too heavy and tightly woven for an all-purpose needle, and a denim needle wasn't quite right either. The microtech needle handled it beautifully.
Since the coat is unlined, I used rayon seam binding to finish all the seam allowances. High-end coats often use this method, and I adore the clean look it provides. Even the seams hidden by the facing got the same treatment. I couldn't help myself — it was so enjoyable!
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As for the sewing process, it was a rewarding experience. I'm thrilled with the final result, and I've been wearing it constantly since finishing it. I even plan to bring it with me on my upcoming trip to Belgium next week. I think this trench coat is becoming a staple in my wardrobe. Maybe the experts are right about those key pieces after all — you just need to customize them to suit your personal style.