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my lisette for butterick B6331 trench coat
I'm sure you've seen countless blog posts and magazine articles with clickbait titles like "10 Must-Have Pieces for Every Woman's Wardrobe." While I understand the appeal of these lists, they've always frustrated me a bit because no two wardrobes should ever look exactly alike. Everyone should tailor their essentials to fit their unique style and personality. Still, there's something to be said for the basics—like a crisp white shirt or a well-fitted pair of jeans—that most people could benefit from owning in some form. My personal take on these staples may differ from someone else's, but the idea remains the same: foundational pieces can provide a solid foundation for any wardrobe.
That being said, there's one classic item that's never quite clicked with me: the trench coat. I own a traditional trench coat, and while I wear it often, it doesn't feel like "me." It's never been one of those pieces that makes me feel confident or stylish. It wasn't until I started brainstorming my ideal trench coat that I realized why this particular style didn't resonate with me. I dislike the length, the belt, and the overall silhouette—it reminds me too much of a bathrobe. Call it honesty, but there it is.
So, I decided to create my version of the perfect trench coat. I found inspiration in the Lisette for Butterick B6331 pattern, which was released last spring. Below, I'll walk you through the process and the changes I made to make it my own.
The fabric I chose was a bonded brushed cotton I picked up during a visit to a small shop outside of London last spring. It was thick, stiff, and had absolutely no drape to it. Knowing this, I anticipated challenges in sewing it, but I was determined to give it a try.
To start, I created a muslin and quickly decided to reduce the ease since the fabric was so rigid. I adjusted the side seams and underarms significantly to slim down the coat and narrow the sleeves. With a raglan sleeve, this adjustment was straightforward—pin the seams as desired and transfer the changes onto the pattern.
Next, I widened the collar by about an inch to add a touch of drama. This was a minor tweak, but it made a noticeable difference in the overall look.
Here's where things get interesting. I added a "banana stand" to the back collar to give it more structure. Without it, the collar sat too flat for my liking, so this was a drafting adjustment I made myself. While it might be too complex to explain fully in a blog post, trust me when I say it was worth the effort. Even though the change is subtle, it perfectly aligns with my vision.
I also incorporated welt pockets into the design. If you're familiar with our Liesl + Co. Cinema Dress pattern, you'll recognize the technique—it adds a touch of elegance while emphasizing the pockets slightly.
Lastly, I omitted the belt and belt loops entirely. The stiffness of the fabric made the belt impractical, and removing it solved my "bathrobe" dilemma once and for all.
Now, let's talk about the sewing process. Finding the right needle took some experimentation. The fabric was too dense for an all-purpose needle, and even a denim needle proved inadequate. Ultimately, a microtech needle worked best.
Since the coat is unlined, I used rayon seam binding to finish all the seam allowances. High-end coats often feature this finishing method, and I adore the clean, professional look it provides. Even the seams hidden by the facing received the same treatment. It was such a rewarding process that I couldn't help but keep going!
Below, you'll see the results. The pocket and princess seam are completely hidden in the finished garment, showcasing the attention to detail.
And there you have it—the trench coat that works for me. It's far from the classic style, and the fabric dictated certain modifications to the pattern. Yet, I couldn't be happier with the outcome. Since finishing it, I've worn it frequently, and I'm even packing it for my trip to Belgium next week. I consider it a new staple in my wardrobe.
Maybe the experts are right about those essential pieces—they just need a personal twist to make them work for you. By finding my own spin on the classic trench coat, I've created something uniquely mine. And that, I think, is the beauty of fashion.